Materials

Often the same questions come up. Is it solid? Is it heat resistant? Hydrocarbon resistant? In short, there are as many materials as there are applications.

Here's a look at the different printing techniques and materials.

Let's start with the technique known as "wire deposit". Also known as FDM. This is the technique we're most familiar with, because it's often used on first price machines. We print with a heated wire in a nozzle, which is deposited layer by layer. You won't find any 3D Classic parts printed with this technique. I'd rather use it for prototypes but never in production.

It's not solid enough, even though there are some interesting materials, and it's not smooth enough - you can see the different layers. However, for parts that aren't visible and don't require perfect aesthetics, why not... depending on your needs, sure.

Next comes the SLA or resin printer. In industry, it is often referred to as "stereolithography". The main characteristic of this technique is the ability to get an incredible level of details. This technique can be used to make parts that are often non-functional but quite solid and very precise.

At 3D Classic you'll find it on our horn buttons or gear knobs, for example, or any other part where aesthetics are important. Sometimes with a technical part underneath, printed in another material, for the mechanical part.

You can also find so-called "technical" resins, which can be similar to real plastics such as polypropylene or ABS.

And finally SLS. Or powder printing. This technique, democratised in recent years by HP (yes, printers maker), enables the printing of near-perfect parts, both in terms of surface finish and mechanical characteristics. It uses PA11 or PA12 nylon, which is UV, petrol and oil resistant. This nylon also allows for flexibility if required on fixings such as clips... in short, it's ideal for durable mechanical parts.

Available in a range of finishes and colours. You'll find a lot of nylon-printed parts at 3D Classic.